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Some corrections: plate load positions they are RN65 metal films not koa/speer. koas are in some of the cathode bypass positions (reverb) and in the series connections of the signal path. Also those are not 715 series caps throughout, but rather 6ps series, easy mistake they both look very similar. 6ps is polyester 715 is polypropylene. They likely used both but only used the 715 in strategic positions.

Pre-tin the back of the clip first for an easier joint and good solder fusion!!!!

haha, anyone notice the Fluke multi meter rip off? thats funny! kinda ironic isn't it?

Hello, can you please tell me what is the smd equivalent of 2SC1815 that you are using here?

This is super helpful. Wish I found this around 6 busted builds ago. I brute forced all this information via PedalPCB and Tayda as well. I wish sites like PedalPCB would create a bill of materials like AionFX does for Mouser parts. You can copy/paste the Mouser part number and quantity to build a shopping cart in a couple clicks.

You have to do a take on the zendrive😅 black triangle 👌🏼🤙🏼 EXCELLENT!

I suggest using a 5 watt resistor to be on the safe side. A 5 watt resistor can dissipate more heat than a 1 watt resistor without melting, making it better for discharging a capacitor. A 5 watt resistor can also be rated for at least 2.5 watts of power dissipation, which is safer for discharging a capacitor.

Excellent quality. Thank you :)

Finishing up the bluebook while watching this, love it and thanks so much!

Great video Ryan.

My guess is that you're right and John has something like an Ox Box with custom IR's of each cab. Probably 1 box per amp. The added benefit of using something like that is that stage volume can be reduced without sacrificing tone. I speak from experience of gigging a 100W Victory Super Duchess with a Two Notes unit. Sounded amazing through the house PA and on stage we were able to avoid overly loud volumes, meaning no ringing ears etc. Heck, even Bonamassa has started using them!!

If you watch the full Trey interview that happened right before Phish Sphere run he explains why they can’t have amps 🎤’d up on stage. Because the PA room speakers 🔊 are lining the entire sphere behind the screen and behind the bands stage too, so they can’t have monitors or amps on stage or it will feedback like crazy. All in ear monitors, drums have slight reverb from the house speakers being behind stage and needs those walls but you hear it a little live inside venue too. It’s wild in there and sounds amazing ! Great video and stoked to see the Dead Spec out there too, maybe amps on stage are for him to have some sound /movement or to tweak live but ya no idea how he goes out to PA

Alessandro twin reverb? Just a thought, no concrete evidence but I think Alessandro has been doing a lot with new transformer iron in deluxe reverbs and twin reverbs I believe. The Alessandro badge would be in the bottom right corner of the amp.

First of all, you need to learn some soldering lesson.

Your dedication to the work you do is remarkable, congratulations!

Mayer uses a dumble amp

Was the tone on 26:42 onwards amp only? If there are no pedal I would never expect SSS to be that gainy!

Hey cool! I have 1025.

Here's a tip on how to get your buss wire straight as an arrow. I make jewelry and may times I need my wire very straight. Here's how I get the nastiest kinked wire straight. 1) Place one end of the wire in your drill. 2) Once secured in the drill, firmly hold the other end of the wire with pliers. 3) Apply stead pressure on the wire by pulling with your pliers, while keeping the drill positioned. 4) Start the drill and all the kinks will come out. It's easy and fast.

Love love love this video….AND THE PEDAL…..of course…..well done……..

Why do the originals always sound best!?

I'm not sure what happened to Tayda.. I used to buy from them some years ago... but from one point in time, they started to offer only DHL Shipping (to Brazil), which brings two big problems: the shipping cost is about the same price as the products themselves (for my case); and 100% of what is DHL shipped is taxed by our customs.. and the taxes makes the costs double... i.e., final price is four times what I used to pay (some years ago, I used to pay from 5-10 USD for shipping, and no taxes). And so far, I could not find a good supplier abroad as Tayda.. I do have some locals, but none of them have such a friendly site and a comprehensive inventory...it is a pity

This is a great video and a must-see for anyone who is getting into pedal building. I’ve been building pedals off and on for some time. If I may, I’d like to add a few things: When you plan to build a project that has hard-to-find parts, try smallbear electronics. They specialize in serving DIY pedal makers. When buying parts from anybody, buy extra parts if possible. It seems that when I drop a resistor on the floor, it disappears, never to be seen again. I’ve built up a supply of frequently-used components. In some cases, I have had most of what I need already on hand. One last thing: I’ve read that some components sold by Tayda are fakes - such as J201 transistors. I personally have never experienced that. Even if true, it is unlikely that it is Tayda’s fault. The problem likely is the supplier. I bought a $25 component tester, which I use to test certain components before installing the part. Again, the video is great. I subscribed because of it.

Fantastic video!

Fantastic video on this pedal! Can’t wait for the next episodes of this series

You should get a resistor bend tree...aka Speedy Bend- Resistor Lead Forming Tool , I see available at Probe Master. It makes loading a board so much faster because you can prebend cap and resitor leads then just plug them in. Wow, the Tayda prices look like they're from the 1960's. Looks like I'm going to have to stock up! I hate the blue resistors!! I can't read the stripes for crap. I built all of the Electronic Projects For Musicians book projects back in the 80's. My dad worked in electronics so I etched all of the PC boards and had all the quality parts I needed. Three great pedals from that book are the Phase Shifter/Vibrato. Tube Sound Fuzz, and Preamp. Oh' the Super Tone Control was also great. The phase shifter on vibrato mode has an amazing slow sweep and great wide frequency shift. The Preamp is a super clean 10V increase. It allows you to take all of your old dynamic vocal mikes and turn them into the best recording mics. I really love the EV-676 through it.

Awesome work on the "Box-a-lator"! It (and surely sounds) looks great. I like this kind of setup for your videos. Thank you for educating and sharing your knowledge 😄

Cool very detailed and thorough video. I had no idea about the dumble box a later so this was very interesting to see

Did you do one of these but comparing the your clone to the Ceriatone JM100?

Lyle at Psonic Audio is awesome! Nice to see you uploading a video 😃 it's been a while. That Deluxe Reverb must have been serviced/modded a few times, so many odd caps and resistors

Huh, so I have this exact same amp.... well all of the components are dated to 1966, but the chassis serial number is very early 1967. Anyway my amp is stock, with only the bypass caps, bias caps replaced, and last year I replaced the filter caps. Looks like this amp has a LOT of mods done do it. I'm not sure what is going on there in the area around the phase inverter... looks like the tremolo is heavily modded with the roach being out of position...and those two gray wires might be how reverb and trem are on the normal channel. You might want to check Rob Robinette's page to see if that is whats going on there. He's got some pages on mods to this amp, including two ways to get effects on the normal channel. It looks like this might be the old Fender mod.

Who made the circuit boards for you? do you have to assemble the buffers yourself, or can you get them assembled with the components you want?

Looks like buying the real one, is to be cool, like the rest of the electricians. Gotta fit in.

You know how I know you're an idiot? Because you said that you changed the carbon comp resistors because they drifted low carbon count resistors don't drift low, they drift high. Therefore, you don't know s*** and you have no business working on this amplifier. Those resistors were perfectly fine. And when you take a black face and change every carbon comp resistor out of it. To metal film or metal oxide whichever ones were using.I think metal oxide.It's no longer a Fender black face.Aunt, because we've changed the characteristics of it by changing out.All the carbon comp resistors. Basically, you've ruined the f****** app.

What is it exactly that the WIMAs do better?

Have a 67 love it and a Pro Reverb 66 Hard to say which is best.

No comments on the build quality or design execution?

How did you know to get 4 ohm drivers? I’m dealing with a broken 4” driver on my Sonos Five and I’m looking for a replacement, but want to match power needs. Can you teach me how to find appropriate ohms/wattage?

Great build Ryan. I really love your face plate. Great idea and very professional looking.

Hello, I am looking to swap the stock pick up with the suhr thornbucker. However, curious what pick up spacing i need to choose. Any guidance appreciated.

I have seen on youtube that some attach the alligator to the multimeter probes and then use the probe on the capacitor so they can see the drop in real time rather than counting and measure after. This must be a more timesaver. So I wonder if it's safe to do it like that. And if not why wouldn't it be?

Funny how clones are just fine when they're expensive and assembled by a boutique builder but they are evil and terrible when they're mass produced. The whole "boutique" pedal market was founded by and is sustained by cloning and using circuits designed by other companies. Now it's "trade dress" we get sad about too.. But as we all know, multiple initials in Sharpie on the inside is what makes a pedal sound the best

Is there any way to make the Deluxe Reverb less boxy? I have a vintage one, a drri, and the handwired new version but they all sound boxy no matter what speaker goes in. I assume it has to do with no mid control and where the dip is in the frequency. And can you put the DR on a scope vs a Two Rock? Im curious if a DR can get close to a JM with a bunch of work. Any mods to get it there?

Can you do one of these with the joyo king of kings vs real king of tone? That would be interesting since they sound so similar

The enclosures are fine, in all reality I think I can say WE, want to know about the guts, the sound, how about a one vs the other?

Will this schematic work for a twin reverb also? And if so can you send me a link to the same scematic?

Nice! Maybe share a schematic of this updated version of the Alembic Blaster? 😊

Great job thanks